Cabaceiras: The “Hollywood” of Northeast Brazil

RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL – Two days ago (October 6th), Cabaceiras was officially acknowledged as a Cultural Heritage Site by the Government of Paraíba, the state where the city is located. The legacy of Cabaceira for Paraíba’s culture, after all, can hardly go unnoticed as the town has long become a landmark for the Brazilian audiovisual scene. Since 1929, Cabaceiras has been the location for at least 52 productions, including films, soap operas, and TV series. No wonder Cabaceiras is known as the “Hollywood” of Northeast Brazil.

When asked why Cabaceiras has such a strong appeal for countrywide filmmakers, locals say that because of its low rainfall levels, semiarid landscape, and the quaint historical center with its conserved eighteenth-century architecture, the city turns out to be an easy pick for directors. Its residents have always been available to work in the productions (whether as extras or cookers) is also believed to be a plus.

Located in the region known as Cariri, 166 km inland from Paraíba’s capital, João Pessoa, Cabaceiras is one of the most important touristic destinations in Paraíba today. Of all the Brazilian productions that helped shed light on Cabaceiras, the iconic “Auto da Compadecida” (2000) was a watershed in the history of this city as it reached a massive audience across Brazil when it was released in the movie theaters. While they are less famous than “Auto da Compadecida”, other films that earned Cabaceiras considerable visibility are “Cinemas, Aspirinas e Urubus” (2005) and “Canta Maria” (2006).

With the fame came the infrastructure to attract and host more tourists. Today, those interested in a comfortable experience in Cabaceiras can find it at Hotel Fazenda Pai Mateus, located in the rural zone, around 25 kilometers away from the city. It is next to the Hotel, where one of Cabaceira’s most incredible natural attractions is the Pai Mateus Flagstone. The name supposedly refers to a hermit who once lived in the area, while the vast, granite rocks of volcanic origins composing the Pai Mateus Flagstone make it look like a site from another planet. Sunset is usually the best time to visit the site, which is open for people other than guests.

Another gem of Cabaceiras’ nature is Saca de Lã. This site stuns visitors for its giant, perfectly piled rocks framed by some of the most iconic cactus species of the semiarid vegetation: Mandacaru and Xique-Xique. The site is around 18 kilometers away from Cabaceiras’ center (a 30-minute drive, roughly).

As the most famous cinematographic location of Brazil’s semiarid zone, Cabaceiras founded, in 2007, the Memorial Cinematográfico de Cabaceiras, a museum that tells a bit of Brazil cinema through the history of Cabaceiras. The Memorial is located in the city’s Historical Center – which, for its eighteenth-century, conserved architecture, is worth the visit. In the collection of the Memorial Cinematográfico de Cabaceiras (which has once worked as a silent film room), photos and scenic objects that have been used in the films can be appreciated by visitors.

If you are curious about the food of Cabaceiras, goat meat reigns as the region’s most traditional delicacy. Corn couscous with goat meat stew is a typical breakfast among Cabaceiras’ locals, while goat ribs with cassava is a typical dish during lunchtime. A famous snack that usually pleases tourists is the “bodioca”, the tapioca (a cassava-based dish) stuffed with goat meat.

To get to Cabaceiras from Rio or São Paulo, it is recommended to fly to João Pessoa (Paraíba capital) and rent a car to Cabaceiras, which takes around two and a half hours.