Uruguay: Montevideo tourism loses cruisers and seeks to retain Brazilians

RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL – Some 50 tourists from the United States and Canada disembarked from the Viking Cruise ship to give stores on the Sarandí promenade a boost, but nothing seems to be enough to save the city from a poor season.

Montevideo’s tourism is fueled by business tourism throughout the year. During the summer, from cruise ships. But both in 2021 and 2022, MSC and Costa Cruceros cruise companies suspended their stopovers in Uruguay due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Last September only 30% of services were expected to be reestablished.

As a result, the last tourist week in Montevideo saw only a few Brazilians leaving the stores astonished by the prices, according to several retailers. They came to Uruguay privately and spent on meals and the occasional tour, but no longer in stores of other kinds, such as souvenirs or street vendors.

“There was virtually nothing. A few Brazilians came and did not spend much. As for Argentines, not a single one came,” said Gustavo, who sells mates and other handicrafts in the Plaza Matriz. “Argentines who came to Uruguay are millionaires and millionaires are in Punta del Este,” added Marcelo, owner of a clothing store on Sarandí and Misiones.

Although many traders from other sectors pointed out that the restaurant industry was the most benefited by the few tourists who came, waiters at the Mercado del Puerto categorically deny it.

“We worked well, we were so busy when the Copa Libertadores was on. After that, never again,” said one of them while interrupting the conversation in search of a passerby to offer his restaurant’s menu. The scenario illustrates what they say: virtually empty establishments, with some scattered tourists or a Uruguayan working in the area who comes to look for something as he walks by. On tourists’ tables the formula is inevitable: “chivitos” (the national meat sandwiche) and beer.

The moods among traders are varied. Some are grateful for the low demand and others lament the pandemic that two years ago robbed them of normality. But they are alike in one thing: hope is in short supply. Marcos sells books in Pérez Castellanos and said: “It’s very sad. We don’t sell, we don’t sell because there is no one. But look around you,” he said as he pointed to the bars on the block.

“At this time it should be full, the street is crowded and there is no one,” he lamented in front of three bars with more than half of the tables free. The three hotels consulted had vacant rooms to welcome guests and recognized that this is a “bad season.”

The number of Covid-19 cases registered in recent days did nothing to boost this destination. “In summer, Montevideo has always been a destination visited by older people, the ones who take care of themselves the most. The number of cases does not encourage this either,” said the bookseller and expressed his concern about a potential new border closure.

The arrival of 15 cruise ships is scheduled from January 9 until the end of the month. In the 2017-2018 and 2018-2019 seasons, the Port of Montevideo hosted 86 and 89 cruise ships respectively.

Crossing Plaza Independencia towards the Old City were two COT buses. A couple of meters ahead, the nearly 50 passengers who got off the first cruise ship to arrive this year. They entered the Joaquín Torres García Museum and looked carefully at the exhibits at the entrance. Santiago, their guide, had the whole tour arranged and, being a professor, he explained the context in which each work was created, in clear English.

When the guide pointed out the presence of El Observador, Lillian, a native of Louisiana, United States, approached and said without much context: “I really want to thank you.” The reason is obvious. “Because in your country you let us in. You opened the doors for us and it’s very nice. In Chile and Argentina they rejected us. So I thank you,” she added.

Afterwards, to the rhythm of the tango Al Compás del Corazón in Carlos Di Sarli’s version, they had “chivitos” for lunch at the iconic Bar Facal. They were welcomed with a Tango show and, for dessert, homemade “dulce de leche.”