Rio de Janeiro Daily Brief for Thursday, May 21, 2026

A wet Thursday best spent in the galleries and music rooms, with the income-tax deadline on the horizon and the IBC-Br activity figure due Friday.

No Martins, Sortilégios de desvio — the MAR reopens Thursday, and this is the indoor day for it

If you give one wet afternoon to Rio culture this week, give it to the MAR, which reopens Thursday after its Wednesday closure and runs the No Martins solo Sortilégios de desvio through September 20. The 60% rain makes the indoor case, and the museum sits a covered two-minute walk from the Praça Mauá VLT stop. This is the first institutional solo for the São Paulo-born painter (b. 1991), curated by Marcelo Campos with Amanda Bonan, Thayná Trindade, Amanda Rezende and Jean Carlos Azuos, on the second floor of the 1916 building restored for the museum’s 2013 opening. Per ART AFRICA, the show “unfolds as a field of deviations, where form and meaning are continually reconfigured.”

What to look for: the figures in everyday clothes rather than the folkloric or religious costumes that anchored most twentieth-century Afro-Brazilian painting, a single editorial choice that does most of the work. Look at the small paper studies where Martins thinks through the territorial-violence question before painting it, the large-format finished oils on the second floor, and the catalogue text by Campos. The show sets two registers against each other: the visual denunciation of state violence and the desvios, the ways Black Brazilian life sidesteps that violence to keep culture, leisure and memory alive. The institutional scale is earned.

Where to go after: with the rain, the move is the covered Boulevard Olímpico and a coffee at the Museu do Amanhã café, or the VLT straight to Cinelândia. R$20 / R$10 meia · free Tuesdays and Saturdays · Tue–Sun 10h–17h, closed Wednesdays · Praça Mauá 5.

CCBB Rio’s Yoshitaka Amano — the pop counterweight, five covered minutes away

If MAR is the painted argument about Black Brazilian everyday life, the CCBB Rio is the pop-illustration counterweight, and the two pair as a single Centro afternoon with mostly covered walking between them on a wet day. The Yoshitaka Amano show Além da Fantasia runs through July 7, free every day, and makes the case that the Final Fantasy and Vampire Hunter D designer is a serious painter who happens to have worked in games and anime. Look for the Deva Loka canvases in acrylic and automotive paint on aluminium, and the early-1970s Tatsunoko anime ink work where the line discipline begins. The commercial and the fine-art work hang side by side, refusing the hierarchy that would separate them.

Combine route: MAR (11h–13h) → VLT Parada dos Museus toward Cinelândia → five-minute walk to the CCBB (14h–17h) → drink at the Travessa do Comércio. Free · Wed–Mon 9h–20h · Rua Primeiro de Março 66.

Indoor samba and the wet-Thursday live-music rooms

With the rain and no carioca home match, Thursday’s pick is indoor live music. Carioca da Gema at R. Mem de Sá 79, Lapa runs the Thursday roda from 21h30, R$40 cover, the most reliable mid-week samba in the bairro and dry under the old townhouse roof. Trapiche Gamboa at R. Sacadura Cabral 155, Saúde runs the Thursday roda from 20h, R$25 cover, the atmospheric old-port room with the original 19th-century warehouse beams.

For jazz and MPB: Blue Note Rio atop the Lagoa at Av. Borges de Medeiros 1424 runs the Thursday set from 20h30 with the panoramic terrace over the water; book ahead, the room is small and Thursday fills early. TribOz at R. Conde de Lages 19, Lapa runs the Thursday jazz from 20h, R$50, the Australian-run room that has been the city’s most serious jazz address for over a decade and the right call tonight.

For the quiet option: Comuna at R. Sorocaba 585, Botafogo runs the Thursday programme from 19h, free, with the bar and bookshop open against the rain.

MAM Rio Hélio Oiticica + Rubem Valentim, Tue–Sun 10h–18h, R$14 / R$7 meia, Av. Infante Dom Henrique 85 · IMS Gávea Claudia Andujar Yanomami archive, free, Tue–Sun 11h–20h, Rua Marquês de São Vicente 476 · Paço Imperial Constelações 40 anos, free, Tue–Sun 12h–18h, Praça XV de Novembro 48 · Casa França-Brasil photography, free, Tue–Sun, Rua Visconde de Itaboraí 78 · MNBA Tue–Sun 10h–18h, Av. Rio Branco 199 · Caixa Cultural Rio Centro programme, free, Av. Almirante Barroso 25 · Museu do Amanhã Tue–Sun, R$30, Praça Mauá 1 · Centro Cultural Justiça Federal free, Av. Rio Branco 241.

MetrôRio runs Thursday 5h–midnight on Linhas 1, 2 and 4 with no matchday extension tonight, the next being Saturday’s Flamengo x Palmeiras. The VLT runs Linha 1 Parada dos Museus for the MAR-CCBB-Praça Mauá route and Linha 3 Carioca for Centro, the dry option on a wet day. With 60% rain, CET-Rio flags the standard flood points on the Avenida Brasil and the Linha Vermelha; allow extra time on the airport runs. Rodízio is not in force in the city of Rio de Janeiro.

Beaches: the rain limits the Posto 9 and Posto 5 rotation, lifeguard cover still 8h–18h. Galeão (GIG) and Santos Dumont monitor weather delays through the afternoon. The Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas perimeter open between showers.

Thursday Centro lunch for the MAR-CCBB axis: Confeitaria Colombo at R. Gonçalves Dias 32 R$78 12h–17h, the 1894 belle-époque room the obvious wet-day choice. Bar Luiz at R. da Carioca 39 from 11h. Café do MAR R$72 executivo. The CCBB has its own café for the pairing.

Thursday dinner: Lasai (Rafa Costa e Silva R$420) open 19h. Oro (Felipe Bronze R$480) open. Olympe (Claude Troisgros) open from 19h30. For Lapa on a wet night: Nova Capela on Av. Mem de Sá 96 until 4h, the cabrito the classic order. For Santa Teresa: Aprazível at R. Aprazível 62 19h–23h with the covered veranda.

Bank branches Thursday 10h–16h. Shopping centres Thursday 10h–22h (BarraShopping, Rio Sul, Shopping Leblon, Village Mall), the dry-weather option today. The May 30 IRPF deadline is nine days away. Pharmacies on plantão. The Praça XV ferry to Niterói runs the full Thursday timetable, monitored for the weather. Defesa Civil holds Rio on attention status for the 60% rain, with the Avenida Brasil and Jacarepaguá flood points on watch.

Thursday in Rio at 22°C with 60% rain: a firmly indoor day. The Lagoa perimeter and Parque Lage open between showers; Pão de Açúcar cable car runs 8h–21h, weather permitting. International community: Aliança Francesa Thursday cinema; British Society Athletic Club Thursday programme; American Society RJ Thursday networking from 19h.

Flamengo reach the last 16; the Maracanã marquee lands Saturday

Flamengo beat Estudiantes 1–0 at the Maracanã on Wednesday to reach the Libertadores last 16 with a round to spare, top of Group A on ten points. Pedro scored the only goal, four days after being left out of Brazil’s World Cup squad. Across the country, Palmeiras lost 1–0 at home to Cerro Porteño, ending a 17-match unbeaten run. That sets up the weekend: Flamengo, second in the Brasileirão on 31 points with a game in hand, host leaders Palmeiras (35) at the Maracanã on Saturday at 21h, with Mirassol x Fluminense the same evening at 19h. Thursday itself is quiet for Rio clubs at home; Botafogo play away at Independiente Petrolero in the Copa Sul-Americana.

Wednesday was a recovery session. The Ibovespa rose 1.77% to 177,355.73 points, led by the banks, and the dollar fell 0.74% to R$5.0034, regaining ground a day after Tuesday’s slide to its lowest close since January. The rebound followed a calmer external tone and the US Federal Reserve minutes, which showed officials increasingly worried that the Iran war could push inflation higher, with a growing number flagging that the central bank should prepare the ground for a possible rate rise.

The DI rate for January 2027 eased to 14.075% from 14.140%. Petrobras began paying R$8.1 billion in shareholder remuneration on Wednesday. The domestic political overhang persisted: investors are still pricing the Flávio Bolsonaro–Vorcaro episode and its effect on the 2026 election picture.

The Selic remains at 14.75%; next Copom meeting June 17–18. Friday brings the IBC-Br activity proxy for March, the central bank’s monthly GDP gauge. The Focus survey still shows the IPCA 2026 forecast above the BCB 4.5% upper-target band.

Fri May 22: Weather eases to 35%. IBC-Br for March.

Sat May 23: Flamengo x Palmeiras 21h Maracanã (R17). Mirassol x Fluminense 19h. Weather clears to 24°C.

Yes. Flamengo beat Estudiantes de La Plata 1–0 at the Maracanã on May 20 to confirm a place in the Libertadores last 16 with a round to spare, topping Group A on ten points. Pedro scored the only goal at 19’/2T, four days after being left out of Brazil’s World Cup squad. Flamengo still await a Conmebol ruling on the cancelled Independiente Medellín fixture, a likely walkover that would take them to thirteen points. Estudiantes stay second on six. A first-half Bruno Henrique penalty was overturned by VAR. Referee Esteban Ostojich (Uruguay).

The MAR at Praça Mauá 5 shows No Martins’s first institutional solo, Sortilégios de desvio, through September 20, with free entry on Tuesdays and Saturdays; it reopens Thursday after the regular Wednesday closure. Five minutes away, the CCBB Rio at Rua Primeiro de Março 66 runs Além da Fantasia, a free Yoshitaka Amano retrospective through July 7, open Wednesday to Monday 9h–20h. Also on: the IMS Gávea shows the Claudia Andujar Yanomami archive free, the MAM Rio holds the Hélio Oiticica and Rubem Valentim rooms, and the Paço Imperial runs Constelações 40 anos free through its season.

The Ibovespa rose 1.77% to 177,355.73 points on Wednesday May 20, recovering from Tuesday’s slide to its lowest close since January, while the dollar fell 0.74% to R$5.0034. The rebound was led by bank shares and supported by a calmer external tone and the US Federal Reserve minutes, which showed rising concern that the Iran war could push inflation higher. The DI rate for January 2027 eased to 14.075%. Petrobras began paying R$8.1 billion in shareholder remuneration. The Selic remains at 14.75%, with the next Copom meeting on June 17–18.

The deadline to file the 2025 personal income-tax return, the Imposto de Renda Pessoa Física, is May 30, 2026, nine days from Thursday. Residents who spent the calendar year in Brazil and met the income thresholds file through the Receita Federal program or the gov.br app. Filing early secures an earlier refund batch, and a missed deadline carries a minimum fine of R$165.74. Receita Federal service points in Centro run 8h–16h on weekdays, though the website handles most cases. Foreign residents with Brazilian tax residency are generally included; a qualified contador helps first-time filers.