Exploring Saco do Mamanguá, a Fjord in Brazil’s Atlantic Forest

RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL – Think of the word “fjord”, and a Nordic landscape somewhere in Norway will probably come to your mind. However, the phenomenon of an elongated sea body that extends far inland can also be spotted in the tropics.

The Brazilian representative of such a geological phenomenon is called Saco do Mamanguá. While some specialists consider Mamanguá a “ria” (a drowned river valley connected to the sea), the region is considered the only fjord along Brazil’s coast.

Saco do Mamanguá is located in the South of the Rio de Janeiro State (in a region called the Green Coast, encompassing the coast side of Rio’s South and São Paulo’s North) and belongs to the municipality of Paraty. Along the 8 kilometer-long sea body of Mamanguá, visitors will find 33 paradisiac beaches (most of which are desertic throughout the year!), 2 islands, waterfalls, fresh seafood, and an area 80% covered by untouched Atlantic Rainforest.

Home to eight traditional communities that preserve a way of living deeply connected to nature, Mamanguá is located inside two conservation units: the Joatinga Ecological Reserve and the Cairuçu Environmental Preservation Area. No wonder it is an ecotourism destination gaining more visibility in recent years – especially among those residing in Rio and São Paulo as the two capitals are not far from Mamanguá.

As an ecotourism spot with an impeccably preserved biome, Mamanguá certainly doesn’t offer the kind of infrastructure we are used to seeing in urban centers. It has only been two years since electric energy arrived in the area, and internet connection is available in only a few accommodations. Being a visitor at Mamanguá, then, means experiencing nature to its fullest.

Those embracing this perspective will certainly not regret it. Among the many wonders of Mamanguá’s nature is the Sugar Loaf. Unlike the namesake mountain that is one of Rio de Janeiro City’s big landmarks, Mamanguá’s Sugar Loaf is a 438-meter-high peak offering a wide-open, panoramic view of Green Coast’s emerald green sea and forests.

The top of the Sugar Loaf can only be accessed by an hour-long trail of moderate difficulty. The trail starts from Cruzeiro Beach, which can be accessed by boat.

Another attraction at Mamanguá, which is not so physically demanding, is the trail to the Rio Grande waterfall. To get there, it is necessary to hire a local guide, who will drive a boat to Mamanguá’s mangrove area.

From the mangrove, an easy, 10-minute trail takes you to the natural pool of the outstanding Rio Grande waterfall – only one among the many falls that can be visited in the Brazilian fjord.

But, apart from its natural beauties, Mamanguá’s history and culture cannot be left aside. The Indigenous traditions inhabited in Mamanguá (such as the Gayanazes) still echo in the native culture.

In Mamanguá, by the way, “native” is no longer a synonym to “Indigenous”, but rather to the encounter of cultures: Indigenous ethnicities who used to live in the region, Portuguese and Portuguese descendants who had lands and businesses nearby, and enslaved Africans and African descendants who worked in the Green Coast.

The fact that Mamanguá natives are so intimately intertwined with nature reflects directly on their culinary expressions. Fresh and abundant, seafood is part of the natives’ daily meals and is served in all restaurants of Mamanguá.

At Praia do Cruzeiro, right next to the beginning of the Sugar Loaf trail, is the Orlando & Maria’s Restaurant, which serves meals (accompanied by rice and beans) for less than US$8.

The battered calamari are famous at Dona Gracinha and Juray’s, also close to Praia do Cruzeiro. At Praia do Pontal, Dadico’s Restaurant serves the “PF Caiçara”, a plate of Robalo (a type of sea bass), rice, beans, salad, and deep-fried cassava. One of the only luxury hotels in the region, Mamanguá Eco Lodge, has a restaurant serving “moquecas” [chowder] and other seafood dishes for those looking for a more sophisticated option.

Staying at Mamanguá is much easier these days as tourists can find accommodations for different budgets. Locals rent their houses on Airbnb, there are hotels like Mamanguá Eco Lodge and Refúgio Mamanguá, campings like Pão de Açúcar Camping, and a hostel, called Mamanguá Beach House.

To get to Saco do Mamanguá from both São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro cities, one must take the BR-101 highway until Paraty-Mirim, which takes around 4:30 hours by private car. From Paraty-Mirim, private boats take you to Saco de Mamanguá (prices vary according to the service and the number of people sharing the boat).