Seven under-the-radar places to experience Rio de Janeiro Lapa’s culinary scene

RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL – Everywhere globally, small food businesses have been among the hardest hit by the Covid-19 pandemic. Many had no option but to shut down, some have shrunk their production to an even smaller scale, others have fully transitioned to delivery apps.

In Rio de Janeiro’s Lapa, one of the neighborhoods that have always relied on its eventful cultural life, eateries has gone through a critical moment after March 2020, when most people adhered to social distancing measures. The situation remains challenging for many of Lapa’s businesses – a case unlikely to change while the pandemic is still a brutal reality in Brazil. But, as counterintuitive as it sounds, it was right during the pandemic that Lapa has gained some excellent new places to try good food and indulge in a good drink.

Below is a list of some of the best places in Lapa and the nearby region to experience an unobvious culinary scene – by night or day. The list is all about recently opened venues – both before or during the pandemic.

1) Panka – Located at the end of Rua da Lapa (very close to Glória neighborhood), Panka is the right bet for those willing to have authentic Peruvian food (the owners, as well as the employees, are all Peruvians) for a reasonable price (main dishes cost around R$40). More than serving various ceviche recipes (to a point it is hard to decide which one to have), the house has excellent “quinotos” (a risotto made of quinoa), pisco-based drinks, and traditional Peruvian beer.

2) Contemporâneo Lapa – In the corner of Rua Gomes Freire and Rua do Rezende lies Contemporâneo Lapa, which invests the best of Brazil’s culinary essence with elements from the contemporary cuisine. From a black rice risotto with shrimps to a gourmet version of “feijão tropeiro” (a typical dish from Minas Gerais), Contemporâneo’s eclectic menu is an excellent go-to for both lunch and dinner. Main dishes cost around R$50.

3) Lilia – If you look for a more sophisticated culinary experience, there is no other in Lapa like Lilia. The restaurant’s excellence seems unquestionable – no wonder, Michelin Guide considered it “the updated traditional cuisine, teeming with strong flavors and always based around ingredients from the market to ensure maximum freshness and affordability”. Offering dégustation (sampler) menus and three-course meals during lunchtime, with menus that change every day, Lilia is a gem in Lapa’s culinary scene.

4) Cozinha da Lapa – A cultural center and restaurant in one and the same place, Espaço Cultural Cozinha da Lapa is located at Rua do Rezende. While the venue has been open since before the pandemic, it has gained considerable projection on social media in recent months. Apart from hosting forró, samba, jazz shows, and DJs during most of the week, Cozinha’s kitchen opens from Tuesday to Sunday, starting at 7 PM. There, one can have soups, homemade burgers, and Brazilian barbecue for fair prices.

5) Boteco Seu França – One of the restaurants launched during the pandemic, Seu França is a bar that stands for Rio’s Black culture by promoting its culture – most notably through music and food. The lively samba show that happens at Seu França almost every day is excellent motivation for sitting at one of its tables and ordering an oxtail fritter, a rump steak sandwich, or some garlic bread stuffed with shrimps.

6) Hoje Tem Curry – Who would say there is an excellent Indian restaurant in the heart of Lapa? Based in the famous Selarón Stairs, Hoje Tem Curry serves typical Indian food during lunch and dinner every day of the week. Hoje Tem Curry is undoubtedly a good deal by serving delicious tikka masalas, samosas, and curries for less than R$50.

7) The Rooftop Lapa – The place to have a fantastic homemade burger while appreciating the view of Lapa’s arches during sunset. Located on the top of the Selina Hotel, Rooftop Lapa’s menu includes friendly finger food options – mushrooms, croquettes, tapioca cubes – and top-notch drinks, like The Roof, made of bourbon, coriander, pineapple juice, and sparkling water.