Your daily culture-first guide to Rio de Janeiro — from Carnaval blocos and museum exhibitions to transport alerts, food picks, and expat essentials.
01 Weather & Air Quality What to wear
Temperature
26°–31°C
Partly sunny, warming
Rain Chance
15%
Mostly dry
UV Index
Very High
Sunscreen essential
Thu 12
31°C
15% rain
Fri 13
32°C
0% rain — Clear
Sat 14
31°C
15% rain
Sun 15
30°C
15% rain
Weather tip: The Carnaval forecast is holding strong. Tomorrow — the first day of official festivities — is expected to be clear and 32°C with zero chance of rain. Saturday through Monday stay warm around 30–31°C with only minor shower chances. This is a sunscreen-and-hydration Carnaval, not a poncho Carnaval. If you are heading to blocos, a hat, SPF 50, and a water bottle are your three essential items. Start hydrating now.
02 Day at a Glance Quick scan
—MAM Rio final day before Carnaval shutdown — closes tomorrow, reopens Feb 19. Daniel Buren sails and Carmen Portinho retrospective: last chance
—CCBB Rio: Vetores-Vertentes (Amazonian women photographers) and Japanese Cinema Festival both open — today is day two
—Carnaval starts TOMORROW — MetrôRio 24h operation begins Friday 05h, 139 hours nonstop through Quarta-feira de Cinzas midnight
—Fluminense vs Botafogo tonight 19h30 at Maracanã (Brasileirão R3) — the biggest midweek fixture in the country
—Last night: Vasco 0-1 Bahia at São Januário (Luciano Juba 21′). Vasco still winless — one point in three matches
—Cariocão quartas de final start tomorrow: Madureira vs Boavista (Fri 17h), Vasco vs Volta Redonda (Sat 21h30), Botafogo vs Flamengo (Sun 17h30)
—Ibovespa smashed through 190,000 for the first time, closed at 189,699 (+2.03%) — 11th record of 2026
—USD/BRL at R$5.19 — lowest since May 2024. Real continues strongest run in 21 months
—Last banking day before Carnaval. Withdraw cash, top up MetrôRio card, finalise all logistics today
This is it — the final quiet day before Rio transforms. Tomorrow at 05h the MetrôRio switches to 24-hour operations, Cordão da Bola Preta opens the official bloco season in Centro, and the Série Ouro lights up the Sambódromo for the first of five consecutive nights of parades. The city you know today will be unrecognisable by Friday afternoon.
The markets delivered a historic session yesterday: the Ibovespa breached 190,000 points for the first time ever intraday, closing at a record 189,699. The real continues to strengthen, with the dollar closing at R$5.1872 — its lowest level since May 2024. For expats, this is the strongest exchange rate window in nearly two years. B3 closes tomorrow for Carnaval and reopens Wednesday Feb 18.
On the pitch, Vasco’s season went from bad to worse last night. A Luciano Juba golaço — a first-time strike from a set-piece routine with Everton Ribeiro — gave Bahia all three points at São Januário, and the home crowd turned on Fernando Diniz by the 40th minute. Vasco sit 18th with one point from three matches. Tonight the spotlight moves to Maracanã for Fluminense vs Botafogo (19h30), the biggest carioca clássico of the Brasileirão round — and possibly the last high-intensity football before the city shuts down for samba.
Culturally, today is your absolute last chance at MAM Rio before Carnaval closes the museum until Feb 19. The Daniel Buren sails and the Carmen Portinho retrospective will not be accessible again for a week. At the CCBB, the Vetores-Vertentes show (Amazonian women photographers) that opened yesterday is drawing early visitors, and the Japanese Cinema Festival runs its second day with free afternoon screenings.
Rio de Janeiro Daily Brief for Thursday, February 12, 2026. (Photo Internet reproduction)
03 Culture & Events What to see & do
Museums & Exhibitions
MAM Rio — Daniel Buren: Voile/Toile – Toile/Voile
Av. Infante Dom Henrique, 85, Aterro do Flamengo — Wed–Sat 10–18h, Sun 11–18h — Free
The first Brazilian edition of French conceptual artist Daniel Buren’s legendary project. Eleven sailing-boat sails — each bearing his signature 8.7cm stripes — stand in the foyer, arranged by regatta finishing order. A half-century project that has toured Genebra, Lucerna, Miami, and Minneapolis arrives in Rio through April 12. The Aterro do Flamengo setting, with Sugarloaf behind, is one of the great museum backdrops in the world.
LAST DAY before Carnaval closure. MAM closes tomorrow (Fri 13) and does not reopen until Wednesday Feb 19. Free entry. Go today — there is no second chance this week.
MAM Rio — Carmen Portinho: Modernidade em Construção
Same venue — Through March 2026 — Free
A 300-document retrospective of the engineer, urbanist, and feminist pioneer who built modern Rio. Carmen Portinho (1903–2001) oversaw the Pedregulho housing complex, directed the ESDI design school, and was instrumental in constructing the MAM building itself. Three curatorial threads — moradia, feminismo, arte e educação — alongside commissioned works by Milena Manfredini and Rommulo Vieira Conceição.
Same closure applies — today is the last window until Feb 19.
CCBB Rio — Vetores-Vertentes: Fotógrafas do Pará
R. Primeiro de Março, 66, Centro — Wed–Mon 09–20h — Free
Now open. A sweeping panorama of 170 works — photographs, installations, videos, fotonovelas, and immersive experiences including augmented reality and a VR film set in an indigenous village — by 11 women artists from Pará, mapping over four decades of Amazonian visual production under a feminist, decolonial lens. Curated by Sissa Aneleh of Museu das Mulheres. After acclaimed runs in Belo Horizonte, Brasília, and São Paulo, this is the Rio premiere. Through March 30.
Why it matters for expats: Day two means still-quiet galleries for one of the most significant Brazilian photography shows of the decade. Free entry, no booking needed. Carnaval hours: CCBB closed Mon 16 & Tue 17, reopens Wed 18 at noon.
CCBB Rio — Viva Mauricio: Mauricio de Sousa, a Experiência Imersiva
Brazil’s most beloved comic-strip universe brought to life across immersive rooms: the Bairro do Limoeiro, Chico Bento’s countryside, the Turma do Penadinho cemetery, the Astronauta’s rocket. Projections, interactive spaces, original artwork — eight decades of Mauricio de Sousa’s creations. Through April 13. Book timed-entry tickets at ccbb.com.br or on-site totems (last gallery entry 17h for timed, 19h for untimed).
Why it matters for expats: Families with children — this is the best free activity in Rio right now. The Turma da Mônica is a cultural institution on par with Disney for Brazilian kids. Grab timed tickets early; they go fast even on weekdays.
CCBB Rio — Mostra do Cinema Japonês 2026
Cinema CCBB — Feb 11–13 — Free
Day two of a three-day Japanese film festival organised with the Japan Foundation and the Consulate-General of Japan. Three contemporary films (2021–2022) including a coming-of-age drama set in a Tokyo maid café. Screenings today from 15h. A quiet cultural refuge on the last calm day before Carnaval — final day tomorrow.
CCBB Rio — Museu BB (Permanent)
4º andar — Wed–Mon 09–20h — Free
215 years of Banco do Brasil history across seven rooms: D. João VI iconography, antique banking equipment, numismatic collections, and period offices from the Rio-to-Brasília capital transfer. A permanent collection often overlooked but genuinely fascinating for history-minded visitors.
Museu de Folclore Edison Carneiro — Entre Máscaras e Gigantes: Os Juliões do Carnaval de Olinda
R. do Catete, 179, Catete — Tue–Fri 10–18h, Sat–Sun 11–17h — Free — Through Feb 25
A Sala do Artista Popular exhibition showcasing the Julião family of Olinda, who have been making giant carnival masks and puppets for over 100 years. The show brings Pernambuco’s mask-making tradition to Rio for the first time — bonecos gigantes, mamulengos, and La Ursa figures. A perfect pre-Carnaval visit with deep cultural roots.
04 Transport & Getting Around Know before you go
MetrôRio
NORMAL — LAST REGULAR DAY
Regular service today (05h–midnight). Tomorrow the 139-hour nonstop Carnaval operation begins at 05h and runs through Quarta-feira de Cinzas midnight (Feb 18). On Friday, Line 2 runs Pavuna–Botafogo; Lines 1 and 4 run Uruguai–Jardim Oceânico. From Saturday through Quarta de Cinzas, Line 2 extends to General Osório/Ipanema. Sambódromo stations (Central do Brasil/Centro and Praça Onze) open 24h. Blocos at Aterro: use Estação Glória. Blocos in Ipanema: use General Osório (external bilheteria at Praça General Osório).
VLT Carioca
NORMAL
Normal service today. From Sunday 15 to Tuesday 17, Lines 2 and 4 will NOT circulate through Centro due to blocos at Praça Tiradentes. Line 3 (Santos Dumont–Central) extended to Terminal Gentileza with 20-min intervals. Normal Friday 13 and Saturday 14.
BRT & Buses
NORMAL
Standard routes today. BRT services 60 and 80 (24h) will have fleet reinforcement on Grupo Especial nights (15–17). Night buses serving Sambódromo area integrated with Terminal Gentileza during Carnaval.
Parking banned around Sambódromo from 06h Friday 13 through 10h Wednesday 18. Plan on metro or taxi for all Sapucaí visits.
Transport tip: TODAY is your last chance to pre-load your MetrôRio card at normal-hours stations. From tomorrow: Estação Saara/Presidente Vargas closed entirely (Sat–Tue), Cinelândia operates 06–20h only with pre-purchased cards for boarding, Catete boarding only with pre-purchased card or NFC contactless, and the Posto de Gratuidade at Central do Brasil closes from Feb 13–18. Estação Carioca/Centro (the main megabloco station) will have embarque only from Largo da Carioca with an external bilheteria. NFC contactless at turnstiles is the easiest option during Carnaval — set it up today.
05 Food & Drink Where to eat
Restaurant Pick
→ Olympe, Jardim Botânico — Claude Troisgros. French-Brazilian fine dining, tasting menu R$480. The last quiet evening for a high-end dinner before the city erupts. Book today.
→ Bar do Mineiro, Santa Teresa — Classic boteco fare: feijão tropeiro, torresmo, pastéis de angu. R$30–55. Buzzing neighbourhood energy, cash preferred.
Coffee & Cafés
→ Confeitaria Colombo, Centro — Art nouveau landmark since 1894. Pastéis de nata (R$12), café coado (R$8). Mon–Fri 9–19h, Sat 9–17h. Last weekday visit before Carnaval chaos hits Centro.
→ Café do Alto, Santa Teresa — Tapiocas, caldo de cana, and bolo de rolo in a hilltop hideaway. R$15–30. The terrace overlooks Centro.
Carnaval Food Prep — Final Call
→ Stock up TODAY — supermarkets will be packed tomorrow morning and then operating reduced hours through Tuesday. Zona Sul Supermercados stays open through Carnaval but expect long queues.
→ Feijoada season — Casa da Feijoada (Ipanema, since 1997, R$75pp) serves every day of the week including Carnaval. Bolinha-level tradition in a Zona Sul setting.
→ Bloco survival kit: water bottles (freeze overnight), electrolyte sachets, energy bars, sunscreen. Buy today — convenience store prices double during Carnaval.
06 Practical Information Need to know
Money & Rates
→ USD/BRL: R$5.19 (closed R$5.1872 yesterday — lowest since May 28, 2024)
→ Dengue season active — repellent at dusk, especially near lagoons and parks
→ Carnaval security: 2,700+ PM agents mobilised, drones, facial recognition at blocos. Medical posts at Sapucaí, Intendente Magalhães, and Fan Fest Copacabana with ambulances
→ Operação Lei Seca active at strategic points — do not drive after drinking
Carnaval Calendar — Final Countdown
→ 1 day until Carnaval — official blocos start tomorrow Friday Feb 13 (462 registered citywide)
→ Sapucaí schedule: Série Ouro Fri 13 & Sat 14 / Grupo Especial Sun 15, Mon 16 & Tue 17 / Desfile das Campeãs Sat 21
→ Série Ouro: SOLD OUT (both nights). Grupo Especial tickets still available via ticketmaster.com.br
→ Holiday status: Tue 17 is the only official feriado (state law). Fri 13, Mon 16, and Quarta de Cinzas (18) are pontos facultativos
→ Banks open today only — LAST normal banking day. Withdraw cash: R$100–200 in small bills for blocos and street vendors
07 Community & Expat Life Connect
Expat Carnaval Groups
→ Gringos in Rio — WhatsApp-based community organising group bloco outings for first-timers during Carnaval. Last-minute sign-ups still possible
→ InterNations Rio — monthly meetup usually at Bar Astor, Ipanema. Check the app for post-Carnaval scheduling
Sports & Fitness
→ Copacabana Beach — morning fitness groups active daily 06–08h (free, Posto 6). Last pre-Carnaval session before the beach fills with blocos
→ Parque Lage — open for runs and walks through the gardens. Art school enrolments for March open (115 full scholarships recently announced)
Families & Children
→ CCBB Viva Mauricio is the top family pick today — immersive, free, and deeply Brazilian. Book timed tickets now at ccbb.com.br
→ Kids’ blocos during Carnaval — Gigantes da Lira (Laranjeiras, infantil), Banda do Lidinho (Praça do Lido, Copacabana, Sun 15 at 15h)
→ Sapucaí family safety: children and teens receive ID wristbands with parents’ phone numbers at entry points during Série Ouro and Grupo Especial nights
08 Sports Scores & fixtures
Brasileirão Série A — Round 3 (Last Night)
→ Vasco 0–1 Bahia (São Januário). Goal: Luciano Juba (21′). Set-piece routine with Everton Ribeiro. Vasco 18th with 1 point — crowd turned on Diniz
→ São Paulo 2–0 Grêmio (Morumbis). Goals: Lucas Moura (pen 21′), Calleri (57′). Wagner Leonardo red card for Grêmio. São Paulo lead with 7 pts
→ Atlético-MG 3–3 Remo (Arena MRV). Dudu equaliser in stoppage time after Remo led 3-2. Six-goal thriller
→ 19h30: Fluminense vs Botafogo (Maracanã) — THE match of the round. Carioca clássico under midweek lights
→ 20h: Corinthians vs RB Bragantino (Neo Química Arena)
→ 21h30: Internacional vs Palmeiras (Beira-Rio)
Cariocão — Quartas de Final (Starts Tomorrow)
→ Fri 13, 17h: Madureira vs Boavista (Conselheiro Galvão)
→ Sat 14, 21h30: Vasco vs Volta Redonda (São Januário)
→ Sun 15, 17h30: Botafogo vs Flamengo (Nilton Santos) — the marquee fixture. TV Globo live
→ Mon 16, 18h: Fluminense vs Bangu (Maracanã)
Single-leg elimination. Draws decided on penalties, no extra time. Losers go to Taça Rio.
Sports note: Tonight’s Fluminense vs Botafogo at the Maracanã (19h30) is the best-attended match you can get this week and the atmosphere will be electric — it is the last serious football before Carnaval takes over. Botafogo’s Danilo is co-leading the Brasileirão scoring chart with four goals. For the Cariocão, the Botafogo vs Flamengo clássico on Sunday at the Nilton Santos — during Carnaval, on TV Globo — is the most anticipated state-championship match in years. Meanwhile, Vasco must respond to their Brasileirão slump when they host Volta Redonda on Saturday. Fernando Diniz is under serious pressure after vaias at São Januário last night.
09 Business & Markets Market watch
→ B3 (São Paulo stock exchange) open today — LAST trading day before Carnaval. Reopens Wednesday Feb 18
→ Ibovespa closed at 189,699 (+2.03%) — breached 190,000 intraday for the first time. 11th record close of 2026. Led by Vale (+3.5%), Suzano (+13.3%), Petrobras (+1.95%)
→ Banks open today — LAST normal banking day. Bank branches reopen Quarta-feira de Cinzas (18) from 12h. Pix and ATMs function normally throughout
→ Government offices: Ponto facultativo Fri 13, Mon 16, and Wed 18 morning (until 14h). Only Tue 17 is an official state feriado
Market trend: Historic session yesterday. The Ibovespa surpassed 190,000 points intraday for the first time, driven by persistent foreign capital inflows, strong blue-chip performance (Suzano surged 13.3% on results), and expectations of a gradual Selic easing cycle. The real closed at R$5.1872 to the dollar — its strongest in 21 months. For expats remitting abroad, this is the most favourable rate window since mid-2024, though volatility remains a factor. The index has now set 11 all-time closing records in the first six weeks of 2026.
→ Thursday — coworking spaces open. WeWork Botafogo, Selina Lapa, Stone Co-Working Centro all operational. Last day of full productivity before the city switches off for five days.
10 Week Ahead Plan ahead
Carnaval Week (Fri–Tue)
→ Fri Feb 13 — MetrôRio 24h begins 05h. Sapucaí: Série Ouro Night 1 (SOLD OUT). Cariocão: Madureira vs Boavista 17h. Cordão da Bola Preta (Centro, 07h — official Carnaval opening bloco). 462 blocos start across every neighbourhood.
→ Sat Feb 14 — Sapucaí: Série Ouro Night 2. Cariocão: Vasco vs Volta Redonda 21h30 (São Januário). Valentine’s Day. Banda de Ipanema (15h, Rua Gomes Carneiro). Banda do Choppinho (Copacabana, 12h).
→ Sun Feb 15 — Sapucaí: Grupo Especial Night 1. Cariocão: Botafogo vs Flamengo 17h30 (Nilton Santos, TV Globo). VLT Centro disruptions begin. Simpatia É Quase Amor (Ipanema, 14h).
→ Mon Feb 16 — Sapucaí: Grupo Especial Night 2 (Beija-Flor, defending champion). Cariocão: Fluminense vs Bangu 18h (Maracanã). Suvaco do Cristo (Jardim Botânico, 08h). Bloco da Terreirada (Quinta da Boa Vista, 12h).
→ Tue Feb 17 — Sapucaí: Grupo Especial Night 3. Official feriado. Last day of the main folia. CCBB closed Mon 16 & Tue 17.
→ Wed Feb 18 — Quarta-feira de Cinzas. MetrôRio 24h ends at midnight. Banks reopen at 12h. B3 reopens. City slowly returns to normal.
→ Sat Feb 21 — Desfile das Campeãs (Sapucaí). MetrôRio 24h again (Sat 05h through Sun 22 23h). Post-Carnaval blocos Feb 21–22.
Looking ahead: Tomorrow morning, Rio becomes a different city. Five consecutive nights of Sapucaí parades (Fri–Tue), 462 blocos across every neighbourhood, four Cariocão quartas de final matches, and a near-perfect weather forecast — 32°C and clear on Friday. The Desfile das Campeãs on Feb 21 is the smart alternative if main-night Grupo Especial tickets are sold out. Tonight, savour the calm: Fluminense vs Botafogo at the Maracanã under midweek lights is a fitting farewell to the quiet city. From tomorrow, the samba takes over.
