RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL – The Escadaria Selarón, one of the best-known tourist attractions of Lapa and, indeed, the whole of Rio de Janeiro, is a popular gathering spot for tourists and locals alike, both during the day and at night.
People come to hang out, drink beer, play or listen to music, and buy and sell souvenirs. The steps first began to be decorated with tiles by Chilean artist Jorge Selarón in 1990.
Over the years the project evolved and, by the time of the artist’s mysterious death in 2013, it counted over 2000 tiles (about 300 of which were painted by the artist himself) from 60 countries across the globe and extended for 125 metres up 215 steps.
Over the last number of months, however, public access to the steps has been intermittently blocked off with cones by the Lapa police force.
The presence and style of enforcement has not been constant. The police are there many but not all nights, and usually start at 10pm, but again, not always. Initially it seems the steps were blocked off after the first or second flight of steps, which allowed people to gather (and take selfies of course) on the lower steps.
However, more recently the police have become stricter and closed the steps from where they meet Joaquim Silva Street, essentially making it impossible to sit there or take pictures at night. Residents of the steps and those going to their homes further up in Santa Teresa are allowed to pass.
The reason for the closure is said to be a request from locals who were disturbed by the noise at night time. Some people present at the steps understand this and therefore, albeit with regret, accept and support the night-time closure.
Others, however, have argued that Lapa is a nightlife district and all residents of the neighborhood are subject to noise into the early hours of the morning and that the steps are no different from, for example, Mem de Sá Avenue and nearby Joaquim Silva.
In fact, due to its popularity, and the ample space to sit down and relax, many think it is particularly important the steps be kept open.
Public streets in the city of Rio cannot be arbitrarily closed to the public. However as the steps are not technically a street, this law does not apply. Street artists have also complained about not being able to perform in a place where they traditionally could present their art.
In any case, whether you see this as a sad development or a just measure, if you are planning a trip to the steps, don’t leave it too late.