In the middle of the Neuquén steppe, in Argentine Patagonia, a region of the Andes, where the wind blows constantly and the scarcity of rain is one of life’s conditions, the olive tree is here to stay.
As Nadia Arias, a researcher at Conicet (National Council for Scientific and Technical Research), revealed in a study conducted for the Patagonian Biosciences Institute, it is not by chance that the region has begun to promote this plant of historical and nutritional value.
The expert indicates that the remarkable adaptability of this tree in environments with water scarcity and its resistance to low temperatures make the Patagonian region the ideal place for its development.
Far from the traditional places where olive oil has been produced for years, such as Mendoza, Cordoba, and even in other provinces of Cuyo, the fact that these lands are chosen for the development of the olive tree is not a mere whim. It is the opposite of that.
“Since it is grown in colder areas, it increases the accumulation of oleic acid and phenols in the plant. These organic compounds make all olive oils grown in the southernmost areas of the country of excellent quality,” says Nadia.
Besides being one of the ideal condiments for seasonings and cooking, extra virgin olive oil is made from the first pressing of the olive, by mechanical or physical means, and cold.
Besides having a large amount of antioxidants, because of its high proportion of vitamin E, it has a greenish-yellow color that is due to its content of chlorophyll and carotenoids, natural protectors against oxidative processes and aging.
Not by chance; some companies in this area of northern Patagonia already work with olive oil production, something unthinkable long ago. Today, they are already positioned as true references in the olive industry.
VINEYARDS AND OLIVE TREES
Familia Schroeder Winery is one of the forerunners in the olive oil field in this northern Patagonian region.
An undisputed reference in wines from Neuquén, and award winners with their particular portfolio, they decided to destine part of their hectares to the production of olive and olive oil.
Herman Schroeder, the winery’s agronomist, talked to Forbes and told us about this enterprise.
Forbes: How did you decide to start producing olive oil, and how did the characteristics of the climate and soil influence you to opt for this crop?
Schroeder: We decided to plant olive groves at the winery because it seems to us to be a product with incredible properties that grows very well in the region and is a good complement to the winery and the restaurant.
The olive tree is a plant with great capacities to adapt to climatic conditions with little water and great thermal amplitude, very cold winters, and hot summers.
We use the natural slope of the fence to plant our olive trees, so the cold air current circulates and does not stagnate in the plantation.
It helped us a lot when the plants were weaker, and we had to take care of the “brindillas” – the poorly developed organ that ends in a flower bud in full production.
Despite the production limitations, such as the cold and wind characteristic of the region, we can obtain a high-quality product in extraction and high-fat yield.
Olive plantations require a certain amount of cold hours and as many hours of light as possible, which we get due to the latitude and location in Patagonia and well-drained soils, so planting on a slight slope is so favorable to us so that water circulates and does not stagnate easily.
We probably won’t get the yields that other productive areas with warmer climates may have, such as in the east and north of the country. Still, there is no doubt that Patagonian conditions allow us to position a product of excellent quality and higher value.
How many hectares with olive trees are there at the winery, what varieties do you have, and how many plants make up that production?
Today we have 1 hectare of olive trees planted in a planting system of 4 meters by 2 meters (distance between rows and plants).
Added to what we grow on the side of the roads, inside the property, we have about 2,000 plants and three varieties: Catalan Arbequina, Koroneiki, and Arbosana.
What is the collection process like, and where do you process the oil?
The olive oil is called extra virgin because of the conditions in which the production process occurs. The oil is obtained from a mechanical first pressing of the olives without using solvents.
Besides keeping low temperatures in its preparation, the olives are harvested at their optimal moment of ripeness and with low acidity levels.
The harvest is done manually in late April and early May.
How is it marketed?
Currently, we market in the winery store and online from the Schroeder Family.
A PROPOSAL FROM ANOTHER SECTOR
The North Patagonia region has several protagonists in terms of production.
Near the Vaca Muerta area, many companies are dedicated to drilling [region accounts for 40% of shale gas reserves and 60% of the country’s total unconventional oil].
One of these companies decided to go for another alternative.
It is the case of Praderas Neuquinas, an olive and olive oil production company born from the impulse of a family of entrepreneurs from the province of Neuquén.
Mariana Mauad is the one who leads this initiative.
Her family comes from companies dedicated to rock removal in gas pipeline works, adding their horizontal directional drilling and chain trenchers services.
As Mariana details in conversation with Forbes, their olive grove is set on the slope of a hillside, a fence on the upper edge of the Neuquén River valley, a place of desert climate, with windy afternoons and hot mornings.
They are only 15 minutes from the capital Neuquén and 1,000 meters from Provincial Route 7.
The area has temperatures that in winter reach 10 degrees below zero and in summer reach 45 degrees Celsius.
“Without a doubt, it is this impetuous climate that gives Sud extra virgin olive oil a unique character, with highly particular notes,” he says.
What draws attention in this production is the presence of Indian cement, a rock of sedimentary origin that undoubtedly also contributes to the flavor.
The olive grove has six grape varieties: Arbequina, Arbosana, Coratina, Koronoeiki, Picual, and Hojiblanca.
According to the entrepreneur, the olive oil mill is surrounded by olive trees in the countryside.
“This ensures that the quality of the product is super-premium because the time from harvest to processing is less than 12 hours, ensuring less oxidation, which allows an acidity of less than 0.2, a fact that shows the excellence of the product chemically,” says Mariana.
Praderas Neuquinas offers two brands: one for the local market and another for export products outside the province of Neuquén. Both respect quality standards.
Their names are Praderas Neuquinas and Sud extra virgin. They are sold mainly in Neuquén province, in the Andean region, and at some points in the capital city of Buenos Aires.
With information from Forbes